Buyer's Guide: Best Of Men's Jackets

March 13, 2015

by Peter Reese
Buyer's Guide: Best Of Men's Jackets

"Transition" is more than a must-use term in a basketball commentator’s lexicon.  It separates an exceptional men’s jacket from an average one;  the ability to move between outdoor and urban means true value.  In addition, flowing seamlessly between seasons scores in the “worth the hanger space” column here at Active Junky.

Five Key Jacket Attributes

Fit:  Body volume that’s big enough to accommodate a layer underneath without increasing the jacket’s bulk

Function:  Reliable zippers, snaps, hook-and-loop and toggle tensioning systems even with cold or gloved hands

Performance:  A combination of heat retention, water repellency (as relevant to each jacket type) and breathability

Style:  Visual impact both in outdoor and urban settings

Durability:  Resistance to abrasion, fading or puckering through severe weather and repeating washing or dry cleaning

Canada Goose Bracebridge:  Unfettered Fashion

  Canada Goose Bracebridge

From tarmac to trail to a table for two, Bracebridge is the kind of grab-and-go piece Active Junky testers favor.  Three-season capable in cooler climates, the streamlined profile of this hip-length jacket flatters athletic builds.  A combination of 2- and 4-way stretch panels allows movement from paddling to poling to chopping firewood.  Carrying Canada Goose’s timeless aesthetic, Bracebridge won the crew over with bonus features cloaked in a hoodless model that required minimal care – and begs for maximum wearing.

Key Attribute: Fit

Best For: Active pursuits and everyday wear in moderate conditions

Expected In The Wearer’s Hand:  A titanium mug of cold water, scooped from a hole he chopped in a Northern lake only moments ago

Nau Ternary:  Striking Back At The Ordinary

  Nau Ternary

As winter ends and spring threatens (at least to snow lovers), Nau moves seamlessly between brisk crosswinds and splashing car tires.  The comforting feel of this waterproof, ripstop model is a contrast to the striking, sharp lines 21oz Ternary brings to every moment; while the poly is 100% recycled, the look is clearly Nau unleashed.  The deep, zip-plus-snap front pocket got raves for secure storage while extended pit zips added to the jacket’s utility for adrenaline sports.  An asym front zipper was a conversation-starter as was the pleated front chest pocket; Ternary is not for the innovation- or style-shy athlete.  Back on Denver’s streets, Nau gave us no reason to switch to a less capable jacket.

Key Attribute:  Performance

Best For: Hardshell protection that strolls any city street, anytime except mid-summer.

Expected In The Wearer’s Hand: A Stanley Thermos filled with hot jasmine green tea (organic, of course)

Kuhl Stockholm:  Be The Exception

  Kuhl Stockholm

Common casual jackets bulk up, hang poorly or feel rough to the tough.  Stockholm defies ordinary builds with WOOLFORCE Stretch Fleece, a fantasy fabric of 70% poly, 20% wool and 10% Elastane.  Testers ran this one around Sun Valley Resort and Ketchum, Idaho during a recent visit;  Kuhl kept its shape, comfort and 4-way stretch mobility intact.  While other pieces push from the outdoors in, this model pushes the other direction to wear far beyond urban environs.  No-pill performance served wearers well, while the pockets delivered function in addition to visual detailing. 

Key Attribute:  Style

Best For: Work and urban wear, weekend outings and travel

Expected In The Wearer’s Hand:  A collab brew, with hand-picked wild sumac among the signature ingredients

AMC Gentleman’s Mid-Altitude Softshell:  8 Mile Meets 8,000 Meters

  American Mountain Co. Gentleman's Mid-Altitude Softshell Starting at: $342.80

If you want to rap about the history of high-altitude alpinism along with urban fashion, Detroit-based American Mountain Company is where you go.  Riffing on the dominant blue and white colorways from the ’53 conquest of Everest by Hillary, Softshell transforms Schoeller WB-400 into big city street credibility.  Not for everyone, M-A breathed well and stretched to the limits in Active Junky testing.  Cush inside and weather fitting out, the model’s hightop collar was a standout feature as were easy-glide Aquazip zippers; inward-facing pocket flaps signaled this one’s different.

Key Attribute:  Durability

Best For: Fashion-hungry urbanites, metro-centric men in harsh weather environments

Expected In The Wearer’s Hand:  The latest iPhone with directions to the nearest ice bar

Carhartt Duck Active Jac:  Hit The Road

  Carhartt Duck Active Jac

This one lands on our list, in part because of the Made in U.S.A. credentials.  There’s no backing away from 12-ounce, heavyweight ring-spun cotton that takes on abrasive, abusive environments.  Active Junky loves flannel anywhere;  an inside quilted body and lined sleeves counter chillier conditions.  Two inside pockets handle the essentials while a generous, drawstring hood stands tall, hardhat or not.  Take it to the streets, the forest and home again.  Carhatt carries the day with sizes to fit us all.

Key Attribute:  Durability

Best For: Weekends in town, at the cabin or state park campground

Expected In The Wearer’s Hand:  Multitool he knows how to use 

Patagonia Simple Synchilla Fleece:  Double The Love

  Patagonia Simple Synchilla Fleece

If numbers are any indication of efficacy, the original Synchilla is among the hardest working jackets on the planet.  The iconic brand now rolls with two fabrics to build more freedom of movement into an undeniably warm style; one is 100% recycled, the other, 85%.  Y-joint sleeves reach high and wide as zippered handwarmer and chest pockets keep track of the essentials.  Comfort is automatic while laundering is simple even in a sink in Singapore.  There’s no reason not to own one across the seasons – and years – as there are few 16.4oz traveling companions this loyal.  Human or otherwise.

Key Attribute:  Performance

Best For: Journeys between 20 feet and 20,000 miles

Expected In The Wearer’s Hand:  A bowl of airag, fermented Mongolian mare’s milk

Montane Rock Guide:  Scale Seracs Or Skyscrapers

Montane Rock Guide

This all-time Active Junky favorite makes the list without equivocation.  Testers have challenged Rock Guide from Moab to the Andes, Appleton to SoCal.  While designed for climbers, this mobile, athletic design defies limitations.  Pertex Microlight sheathing promises stretch, wind resistance and breathability.  A Honeycomb Flash inner lining jets away sweat when the wind dies and midday sun threatens to overheat at altitude.  Not for posers, Rock Guide looks good standing still, whether on belay or leaning against an authentic, carved-wood Irish bar.  Last call for a jacket equipped for vertical endeavors along with life’s breezier moments.

Key Attribute:  Function

Best For: Mid- or outer-layer protection except in high winds or pummeling rain

Expected In The Wearer’s Hand:  A smooth river stone talisman from the approach hike.

Helly Hansen Odin Rapide:  The Value Of Intelligent Design

  Helly Hansen Odin Rapide

From nautical roots comes a growing line of sea-to-summit apparel.  Odin Rapide takes a rich history in stride to show up well prepared – and far under $200.  Active Junky can’t argue with a no-frills softshell utilizing double-weave construction.  Ready to wear today and for years to come, DWR treatment fights off moisture as well as staining.  Helly Hansen’s zippers continue to impress with easy-sliding closure in the right places and at optimum lengths.  Under a hardshell, this model slides into winter wear to extend well beyond spring and fall deployment. 

Key Attribute:  Fit

Best For: Nearly year-round wear in many climates, defense against cooler temperatures and moderate winds

Expected In The Wearer’s Hand:  Single-origin, Fair Trade coffee in a favorite mug from home

Dakine Buckshot Flannel: Let The Games Behind

  Dakine Buckshot Flannel

Not every scenario revolves around piercing wind or live bands with cover charges.  Dakine cloaks men in the kind of clothes that feel right after surfing, skiing, riding or trail running.  Buckshot takes aim at casual comfort with a sturdy jacket; Spandex fiber retains the style’s shape and makes for quicker drying times.  Button front closure and cuff snaps keep the tech low and convenience high.  Active Junky liked the chest pocket that fit Buckshot’s sensible approach to warmth and good looks.

Key Attribute:  Function

Best For: Nearly every man’s wardrobe as a no-brainer basic

Expected In The Wearer’s Hand:  Whatever’s handy.

Ibex Europa:  No More Sheepish

  Ibex Europa Jacket Starting at: $283.16

With a boldness born of weather-defying wool, this heavyweight Austrian loden jacket is a super solid choice.  Active Junky’s been wearing a vest version for over 12 months now, standing up to wind and weather in a fabric born over 500 years ago. Dense without being burdensome, structured minus the starch, Europa’s 100% water processed.  Natural oils remain (minus any greasiness) in a 25 micron style matched to alpine passes and American streets; fibers are from Down Under while Austria produces the fabric for construction in the U.S. 

Key Attribute:  Style

Best For: Home, travel, work, outdoor non-abrasive environments

Expected In The Wearer’s Hand:  The leash of a remarkable dog, breed TBD

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