Though parts of Costa Rica have been overrun by tourism in the last decade, Pavones maintains off-the-beaten-track simplicity. The small surf town is situated just north of the Panamanian border, at a spectacular junction of verdant mountains and curving Pacific coastline. Accessible by dirt roads, Pavones is only enjoyed by travelers willing to make the trek. An eclectic flow of surf bums, ex-pats, and soul-searching pilgrims attest to the singular nature of Pavones, while making the town the bizarre crossroads that it is.

Follow these tips and recommendations to make your visit to this matchless locale more enjoyable.

Tropical Sanctuaries: Where to Stay

Castillo de Pavones: Down-to-earth Luxury

Castillo de Pavones, meaning “Castle of Pavones,” is a boutique hotel that offers a down-to-earth luxury seldom seen in surf towns. The hotel is true to its name without being overly grandiose. Personal attention from accommodating staff makes you feel right at home. Start your morning off with fresh fruit, smoothies, and coffee, then an omelet or perhaps a plate of French toast. Staff will set you up with horseback riding tours or sport fishing trips, and if you want a surf lesson, Castillo has two professional surfers on call who will get you up and riding in no time. The guy who just served you breakfast may very well be one of the best surfers in the country.

The four themed rooms are inimitable, comfortable, and beautifully designed. Gnarled wood has been polished smooth to craft everything from balcony railings to bed frames, and the natural motif combined with huge windows make you feel like you just happen to be crashing in the most lush part of the jungle. Comfort is paramount to the mission of Castillo, and welcome amenities include outdoor showers, stone Jacuzzis, and king size beds. Whether you are on a romantic getaway or a well-deserved surf trip, you can’t go wrong at Castillo de Pavones.

Caza Olas: Headache-Free Budget Lodging

If you are looking for a budget option, but you don’t want to deal with the mess and noise that often comes with the badge “surf hostel,” check out Caza Olas. This hostel and hotel offers both private and dorm rooms with air conditioning, a lifesaver in the humidity and heat. The rooms are simple, comfortable, and clean. An al fresco kitchen is open to guests, and the staff is beyond helpful. Just a quick walk from the break, this is a budget surfer’s dream spot.

The Ceviche and Cerveza Diet: Where to Eat and Drink

Ebenezer’s is the best cheap option in town. We recommend the fried chicken; crunchy and delicious. The Jolly Roger has great food, but it can get crowded. If you don’t mind hanging out on a busy night, the Jolly Roger is the place to be. Two daily happy hours will wet your whistle if you’re looking for a drink. La Soda Conchita is a newly opened, family-run restaurant that has typical Costa Rican food for a decent price. Casona La Perron has the best ceviche in town.

Now to get there…

Once you’ve touched down in San Jose, you can take a small plane to the town of Golfito, and then take a taxi ($80-90) or a bus (cheap) to Pavones. If you are going to bus it straight from San Jose (the cheapest option), we recommend that instead of heading to Golfito, you take a bus to the border town of Paso Canoas. This is a faster route because it follows the central highway rather than bumpy coastal roads. From Paso Canoas, it’s about a $60 cab ride or a cheap bus if you happen to catch it at the right time. Tracopa is the preferred bus company, and it’s easy to take a taxi from the airport in San Jose to the Tracopa station. Block out a day on either end of your trip to get to and from Pavones, although this time can be significantly less should you opt to rent a car.

Don’t worry, you’ll get there eventually, and you’ll be living the pura vida lifestyle in no time.