Visiting Valparaiso: 4 Essential Stops

December 7, 2015

by Peter Reese
 Visiting Valparaiso: 4 Essential Stops

Just hours from Santiago, Valparaiso is a colorful coastal city that calls to everyone from surfers and history buffs to foodies and art lovers. Rife with art, action, nightlife and history, “Valpo” is a destination that’s not to be missed. After spending a week soaking up the beaches and exploring the city’s metropolitan hillsides, the Active Junky crew put together a few essential stops—add these to your Valpo itinerary to make the most of your trip.

Where to stay:

Casa Galos Apart Hotel and Lofts sits in the heights of the old city, where metal sheeting salvaged from container ships creates an architectural vernacular unique to Valpo.  Painted homes of every hue surround the Hotel, all visible from the new rooftop deck.  Active Junky took advantage of the in-room kitchen to cook breakfast (natural ingredients and breads provided daily) while venturing out to the neighborhood’s many late dinner options.  At every turn; graffiti with style, shock-value and passion.  Be certain to walk early and late to let the vibe infuse your soul.

What to eat:

The “completos” at Marco Polo, in the city’s center, set a high standard for this Chilean tradition.  Think of this sausage sandwich as a Coney Island or Chicago Dog taken to the extreme.  Piled high with add-ons, each creation loads the plate with steaming goodness; the house-specialty Italian mimics the country’s flag with green avocado, red sauce and white mayonnaise.  Know that street and corner shop versions go for much less but are more of a digestion lottery.  

Café Vanilo, three short, steep downhill blocks from Casa Galos, turns late night dining into a celebration of local flavors. The rabbit entrée with a side of finely mashed potatoes was a standout among three dinners.  Long tables celebrate group occasions, while the wine list ranges from affordable to obtuse.  As with most worthwhile restaurants in Valparaiso, don’t expect fast service or early table times; many guests don’t saunter in until well after 10:00pm.

Where to surf:

North of Valparaiso proper are several idyllic beaches, one known for launching aspiring wave riders into the Pacific.  “Concon” is home to a solid school, with Freesport ready to rent riders and paddlers the tools of their swell-bound trade.  Active Junky jumped at the chance to paddle out, SUP-style, with $15 covering both board and paddle for the afternoon.  After adjusting balance and stroke to a new board and powerful waves, staying up got easier as the sun passed overhead.  Fried empanadas, the local specialty, are within a gull’s wing-distance from the sand to stay fueled for long sessions

Images via Keith Ladzinski

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