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National Park: Arches National Park, Grand County, Utah
Delicate Arch – while the park boasts over 2,000 natural arches, Delicate Arch is by far the most recognizable as both a symbol of the park and the state of Utah. It stands alone in a sandstone bowl accessed by a short hike. Walk right up to the base, snap a picture, then step back, take a seat and enjoy the view—which is particularly beautiful in the light of a setting summer sun.
The 120-square-mile park is located in southwestern Utah near the city of Moab, which is a popular destination in its own right. After entering the park, Arches Scenic Drive passes several viewpoints and features and provides a stunning view of the La Sal mountain range in the distance.
Popular Hikes: Arches & Viewpoints
Most attractions in Arches are accessed by short hikes, many under a mile. Delicate Arch certainly is the most recognizable feature, with a short half-mile hike (or jog) to its base, and it’s certainly worth standing underneath to take in all its glory.
Double Arch is another short hike, where a dirt trail leads directly under side by side arches. Opposite the parking lot from Double Arch you’ll find Turret Arch and the North and South Windows, large holes in a sandstone wall that with time will be arches themselves. Right off the main road you’ll find Balanced Rock, another well-known feature. While it’s one 130-foot structure, the top 55 feet perches on a narrower base creating the illusion that gives it its name.
For a longer stroll past several arches, head to Devils Garden. The eight-mile Primitive Trail loops past seven arches, including Landscape Arch, which at 290 feet is the longest in park. You’ll also pass the ruins of Wall Arch, which collapsed in 2008. Dark Angel – a 150-foot sandstone spire – towers alone at the far end of the trail, watching over the Garden.
Off the Beaten Trail: Permits Required
If you are able to score a Fiery Furnace permit, consider yourself lucky as this is one of the most beautiful places in the park. Only 50 permits are issued each day, and must be picked up in person at the visitor center. And you’ll appreciate the population control—rangers instruct you to avoid other parties so each can enjoy quiet solitude while exploring the maze of sandstone canyons and hidden arches. There are no trails, no signs and no limit to the time you can spend wandering this hidden gem. Take plenty of water and snacks, and get a little lost.
Canyoneering in Arches requires a permit, but there is no limit to the number issued daily, so you won’t have to worry about missing out. There are several small canyons to explore in the park, or head to the Broken Arch trailhead to access Lost Spring Canyon, a 3,100-acre playground with several large drops into washes along the way, so make sure you’re prepared with proper canyoneering gear.
Backcountry backpack was a popular option in Arches when permits were first offered in 1988. However, backcountry exploration has been put on hold while the effects and impact of nearly 30 years of backpacking can be evaluated. A major concern is destruction of cryptobiotic soil, which careless hikers may simply dismiss as black dirt. But it is in fact teaming with organisms like bacteria and lichens that create a crust that helps prevent soil erosion. The crust can take decades to form and a single second to destroy. No matter where you are in the park, stay on established trails and avoid “social trails” created by other visitors.
Camping and RV sites are available within the park, though the main campground at Devils Garden is closed through the 2017 season for construction. When open, there are 50 sites that are online reservation based between March and October, and first come, first served from November to February. Group tent sites at Canyon Wren and Juniper will remain open during construction.
BLM camping is abundant in the area, with 24 first come, first served sites within a few miles of the park. Make sure you have some cash to cover overnight fees. Active Junky’s favorite are scenic sites along highway 128 next to the Fisher Towers section of the Colorado River. If you prefer indoor accommodations, you have several options in the area, many of which also welcome your four-legged companions. Have a look at Moab’s travel website for options.
You won’t find dining in the park, but again, Moab provides. For breakfast, head to Eklecticafe, a quaint veggie-friendly shop that’s always bustling. Try an enormous breakfast burrito (with scrambled eggs or scrambled tofu), and Utah-based Caffe Ibis brews. After a long day, refuel at Moab Burger, with natural raised beef, organic chicken, homemade veggie burgers and even grass-fed buffalo.
Because biking is only permitted on paved roads in the park, mountain bikers should head to nearby Moab, a mountain biker’s dream with over 100 trails covering more than 300 miles. The Whole Enchilada is a 33-mile track with nearly 8,000 feet of descent—you start from an alpine pass in the La Sal mountains, cruising through forests to sandstone canyons to red slickrock. Many consider this one of the best mountain biking trails in the world, so definitely one die-hard bikers shouldn’t miss.
The Colorado River offers several stretches for a variety of water activities. The Fisher Tower section along highway 128 is mild enough for lounging in a tube or relaxing on your SUP. Take an inflatable kayak and your fishing pole as well. Those seeking white water have good choices within a couple hours of Arches. Westwater can be done in a single day or as an overnight trip, and offers class I to class III+ rapids, with some that hit class IV at high water. Cataract Canyon has large sections of flat water and up to class V rapids, so it is a good choice for more experienced paddlers who can handle big waves and push hard through flat water.
There’s no bad time to visit Arches. It’s open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year with peak visitor months from late spring to mid fall. To avoid crowds, go before or after the busy tourist season. Given that the backcountry is closed for an indeterminate time, your winter activity options are limited to standard hiking trails.